Want to give this lifestyle a try? Here’s what you need to know, including, most importantly, how to store your RV properly so it holds its value and stays ready to roll.<\/p>\n
<\/span>Buying an RV for the first time<\/span><\/h2>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.storagecafe.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/44\/2026\/07\/motorhome.jpg\")
<\/p>\n
The three decisions that shape every other choice in RV ownership are vehicle type (motorhome vs. towable), size class, and new vs. used – and getting them right before you shop saves time and expensive mistakes.<\/p>\n
A few things worth figuring out before you start shopping: the type and size of vehicle, which features you actually need, and whether to buy new or used.<\/p>\n
<\/span>Motorhome or towable?<\/span><\/h3>\nThere are two main types of RVs: ones you drive directly, called motorhomes, and ones that need to be towed (fifth wheelers and travel trailers).<\/p>\n
Fifth wheelers and travel trailers don’t have their own engine, so they’re cheaper on average than motorhomes. The catch is that towing one requires a powerful truck or SUV. If you don’t already own a vehicle capable of the job, factor that purchase into the math \u2014 the savings narrow quickly.<\/p>\n
A new motorhome can run $500,000 or more if you’re going top-of-the-line, but the average falls somewhere between $80,000 and $125,000. Buy used and you can typically cut those figures roughly in half. New fifth wheelers hover around $50,000, with decent used ones available for around $20,000, though you’ll still need a capable pickup, which adds at least another $30,000 new.<\/p>\n
Many people find towables easier to drive than motorhomes, but that’s genuinely a personal preference. You should definitely try both before you decide. One practical edge motorhomes have: everyone in the vehicle has access to the kitchen, bathroom, and everything else while you’re moving. With a towable, the passengers are in the tow vehicle and have to stop to use any of the RV’s features.<\/p>\n
<\/span>Which size do you need?<\/span><\/h3>\n![\"Campervan](\"https:\/\/www.storagecafe.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/44\/2026\/07\/campervan.jpg\")
<\/p>\n
RVs are divided into classes by size.<\/p>\n
Class A motorhomes<\/strong> are the largest. They can sleep six to ten people and come loaded with amenities, but they’re difficult to maneuver and won’t fit in many campgrounds or standard parking areas. New ones can easily exceed $500,000.<\/p>\nClass B RVs<\/strong>, also called camper vans, are the smallest of the bunch. They’re built on a van chassis, which means they fit in a regular parking space and handle off-road or remote destinations reasonably well. The tradeoff is limited space. You’ll have a sink, toilet, and shower, plus room for a small kitchen, but not much else.<\/p>\nClass C RVs<\/strong> split the difference. Built on a half-truck frame, they offer more space than a camper van while still being significantly easier to drive than a Class A.<\/p>\nTow-behind trailers and fifth wheelers are generally comparable in size to Class A and Class C motorhomes. Their main advantage: unhitch and leave the RV at the campsite while you drive the tow vehicle around freely.<\/p>\n
<\/span>Should you buy a new or used RV?<\/span><\/h3>\nFor most first-time buyers, a used RV is the better starting point: lower purchase price, cheaper insurance, and a lower-stakes way to test the lifestyle before committing to a new unit at full price.<\/p>\n
A new RV does come with a full manufacturer’s warranty and the ability to customize features and finishes, and if those things matter to you the premium may be worth it. A used RV is substantially more affordable, cheaper to insure, and you can remodel the interior without worrying about tanking its value. The downside is that damage is hard to assess on a used unit. Problems might be hiding behind cabinets, paneling, and slideout walls.<\/p>\n
If you’re new to all of this, it’s probably worth starting used. Give the lifestyle a real test before committing to a brand-new purchase.<\/p>\n
<\/span>Where should you store an RV when you’re not using it?<\/span><\/h2>\n![\"Stored](\"https:\/\/www.storagecafe.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/44\/2026\/07\/RV-storage.jpg\")
<\/p>\n
This is the question most beginner guides skim past, and it’s one of the most important decisions you’ll make as an owner. Where your RV sits between trips has a direct impact on how much it costs you over time \u2014 in repairs, in wear, and in resale value. RV owners have four main storage options: their own driveway or property, a self-storage facility, a campground or RV park, or a dealership storage program. Each comes with different tradeoffs on cost, convenience, and how well your RV holds up over time.<\/p>\n
<\/span>Can you store an RV in your driveway?<\/span><\/h3>\nParking at home sounds like the obvious solution until you look into it. Many HOAs prohibit RV storage in driveways outright, and plenty of municipalities have their own ordinances limiting how long an oversized vehicle can sit on a residential street or property. Check both before assuming you’re in the clear.<\/p>\n
If home storage is allowed, your next decision is how to protect the vehicle. A tarp is the cheapest option but does the least. They trap moisture, abrade the finish in wind, and blow off. A purpose-built carport offers meaningfully better protection from sun and precipitation. A full covered parking structure is the best home-based option and the most expensive to build, but it pays off in reduced wear over years of storage.<\/p>\n
The main advantage of home storage is obvious: the RV is right there when you want it. The main risk is exposure to UV, weather, and temperature swings. All do slow damage that adds up over time.<\/p>\n
<\/span>Self storage facilities<\/span><\/h3>\n
<\/p>\nThere are two main types of RVs: ones you drive directly, called motorhomes, and ones that need to be towed (fifth wheelers and travel trailers).<\/p>\n
Fifth wheelers and travel trailers don’t have their own engine, so they’re cheaper on average than motorhomes. The catch is that towing one requires a powerful truck or SUV. If you don’t already own a vehicle capable of the job, factor that purchase into the math \u2014 the savings narrow quickly.<\/p>\n
A new motorhome can run $500,000 or more if you’re going top-of-the-line, but the average falls somewhere between $80,000 and $125,000. Buy used and you can typically cut those figures roughly in half. New fifth wheelers hover around $50,000, with decent used ones available for around $20,000, though you’ll still need a capable pickup, which adds at least another $30,000 new.<\/p>\n
Many people find towables easier to drive than motorhomes, but that’s genuinely a personal preference. You should definitely try both before you decide. One practical edge motorhomes have: everyone in the vehicle has access to the kitchen, bathroom, and everything else while you’re moving. With a towable, the passengers are in the tow vehicle and have to stop to use any of the RV’s features.<\/p>\n
<\/span>Which size do you need?<\/span><\/h3>\n<\/p>\n
RVs are divided into classes by size.<\/p>\n
Class A motorhomes<\/strong> are the largest. They can sleep six to ten people and come loaded with amenities, but they’re difficult to maneuver and won’t fit in many campgrounds or standard parking areas. New ones can easily exceed $500,000.<\/p>\nClass B RVs<\/strong>, also called camper vans, are the smallest of the bunch. They’re built on a van chassis, which means they fit in a regular parking space and handle off-road or remote destinations reasonably well. The tradeoff is limited space. You’ll have a sink, toilet, and shower, plus room for a small kitchen, but not much else.<\/p>\nClass C RVs<\/strong> split the difference. Built on a half-truck frame, they offer more space than a camper van while still being significantly easier to drive than a Class A.<\/p>\nTow-behind trailers and fifth wheelers are generally comparable in size to Class A and Class C motorhomes. Their main advantage: unhitch and leave the RV at the campsite while you drive the tow vehicle around freely.<\/p>\n
<\/span>Should you buy a new or used RV?<\/span><\/h3>\nFor most first-time buyers, a used RV is the better starting point: lower purchase price, cheaper insurance, and a lower-stakes way to test the lifestyle before committing to a new unit at full price.<\/p>\n
A new RV does come with a full manufacturer’s warranty and the ability to customize features and finishes, and if those things matter to you the premium may be worth it. A used RV is substantially more affordable, cheaper to insure, and you can remodel the interior without worrying about tanking its value. The downside is that damage is hard to assess on a used unit. Problems might be hiding behind cabinets, paneling, and slideout walls.<\/p>\n
If you’re new to all of this, it’s probably worth starting used. Give the lifestyle a real test before committing to a brand-new purchase.<\/p>\n
<\/span>Where should you store an RV when you’re not using it?<\/span><\/h2>\n<\/p>\n
This is the question most beginner guides skim past, and it’s one of the most important decisions you’ll make as an owner. Where your RV sits between trips has a direct impact on how much it costs you over time \u2014 in repairs, in wear, and in resale value. RV owners have four main storage options: their own driveway or property, a self-storage facility, a campground or RV park, or a dealership storage program. Each comes with different tradeoffs on cost, convenience, and how well your RV holds up over time.<\/p>\n
<\/span>Can you store an RV in your driveway?<\/span><\/h3>\nParking at home sounds like the obvious solution until you look into it. Many HOAs prohibit RV storage in driveways outright, and plenty of municipalities have their own ordinances limiting how long an oversized vehicle can sit on a residential street or property. Check both before assuming you’re in the clear.<\/p>\n
If home storage is allowed, your next decision is how to protect the vehicle. A tarp is the cheapest option but does the least. They trap moisture, abrade the finish in wind, and blow off. A purpose-built carport offers meaningfully better protection from sun and precipitation. A full covered parking structure is the best home-based option and the most expensive to build, but it pays off in reduced wear over years of storage.<\/p>\n
The main advantage of home storage is obvious: the RV is right there when you want it. The main risk is exposure to UV, weather, and temperature swings. All do slow damage that adds up over time.<\/p>\n
<\/span>Self storage facilities<\/span><\/h3>\n
<\/p>\nClass B RVs<\/strong>, also called camper vans, are the smallest of the bunch. They’re built on a van chassis, which means they fit in a regular parking space and handle off-road or remote destinations reasonably well. The tradeoff is limited space. You’ll have a sink, toilet, and shower, plus room for a small kitchen, but not much else.<\/p>\n Class C RVs<\/strong> split the difference. Built on a half-truck frame, they offer more space than a camper van while still being significantly easier to drive than a Class A.<\/p>\n Tow-behind trailers and fifth wheelers are generally comparable in size to Class A and Class C motorhomes. Their main advantage: unhitch and leave the RV at the campsite while you drive the tow vehicle around freely.<\/p>\n For most first-time buyers, a used RV is the better starting point: lower purchase price, cheaper insurance, and a lower-stakes way to test the lifestyle before committing to a new unit at full price.<\/p>\n A new RV does come with a full manufacturer’s warranty and the ability to customize features and finishes, and if those things matter to you the premium may be worth it. A used RV is substantially more affordable, cheaper to insure, and you can remodel the interior without worrying about tanking its value. The downside is that damage is hard to assess on a used unit. Problems might be hiding behind cabinets, paneling, and slideout walls.<\/p>\n If you’re new to all of this, it’s probably worth starting used. Give the lifestyle a real test before committing to a brand-new purchase.<\/p>\n This is the question most beginner guides skim past, and it’s one of the most important decisions you’ll make as an owner. Where your RV sits between trips has a direct impact on how much it costs you over time \u2014 in repairs, in wear, and in resale value. RV owners have four main storage options: their own driveway or property, a self-storage facility, a campground or RV park, or a dealership storage program. Each comes with different tradeoffs on cost, convenience, and how well your RV holds up over time.<\/p>\n Parking at home sounds like the obvious solution until you look into it. Many HOAs prohibit RV storage in driveways outright, and plenty of municipalities have their own ordinances limiting how long an oversized vehicle can sit on a residential street or property. Check both before assuming you’re in the clear.<\/p>\n If home storage is allowed, your next decision is how to protect the vehicle. A tarp is the cheapest option but does the least. They trap moisture, abrade the finish in wind, and blow off. A purpose-built carport offers meaningfully better protection from sun and precipitation. A full covered parking structure is the best home-based option and the most expensive to build, but it pays off in reduced wear over years of storage.<\/p>\n The main advantage of home storage is obvious: the RV is right there when you want it. The main risk is exposure to UV, weather, and temperature swings. All do slow damage that adds up over time.<\/p>\n<\/span>Should you buy a new or used RV?<\/span><\/h3>\n
<\/span>Where should you store an RV when you’re not using it?<\/span><\/h2>\n
<\/p>\n<\/span>Can you store an RV in your driveway?<\/span><\/h3>\n
<\/span>Self storage facilities<\/span><\/h3>\n